Before Korean food was cool, Corey Lee was already redefining it

Before Korean food was cool, Corey Lee was already redefining it

Global Influence of K-Everything

Before Korean food was cool Corey – EDITOR’S NOTE: K-Everything, a CNN Original Series, is led by Daniel Dae Kim and delves into the worldwide reach of South Korean culture. The show is now accessible on CNN International, CNN All Access, and HBO Max. Korean cuisine has emerged as a cultural phenomenon, yet its transformation began long before it became a trend. Corey Lee, who recently became the first Korean chef to achieve three Michelin stars, was instrumental in reshaping the culinary landscape well ahead of its mainstream ascent.

A Culinary Awakening in the US

Lee’s early years were spent in a New Jersey suburb, where Korean dishes were not a common sight. In his household, gochujang paste was not a standard ingredient, and kimchi was far from a fashionable garnish in trendy restaurants. At the time, he never imagined serving kimchi in a high-end dining setting. “Back then, I wouldn’t have thought of kimchi as a fine dining component,” he reflects.

Today, the global popularity of Korean culture—referred to as the Hallyu—has reshaped industries from entertainment to fashion. This cultural shift has also propelled Korean cuisine into the international spotlight. Last year, kimchi exports reached record levels, while the number of overseas locations for Korean food brands increased by nearly 25% since 2020. Yet, for Lee, this evolution was a gradual process that began with his own journey in the culinary world.

From French Kitchens to Korean Heritage

Lee’s professional path started in kitchens dedicated to French techniques, a far cry from the Korean food he knew as a child. Over the past 15 years, he has returned to his roots, blending Korean traditions with modern flair. His work at Benu, a contemporary East Asian restaurant in San Francisco, earned three Michelin stars, and his recent ventures include a smart-casual Korean barbecue spot in the city, a concept restaurant within a Singaporean car factory, and a collaboration with a top South Korean kimchi brand to craft premium products.

Lee was born in Seoul in 1977 but moved to the United States with his family at age five. Growing up in New York and later in Tenafly, New Jersey, he was immersed in Korean culture but had limited exposure to the culinary arts. His parents, who raised him in the US, didn’t encourage him to pursue cooking. “We didn’t watch cooking shows, and I never considered becoming a chef,” he recalls. That changed in 1995, when a chance opportunity led him to a different path.

A Summer That Changed Everything

At 18, Lee took a summer job at Blue Ribbon Brasserie in New York. The experience was transformative, sparking an immediate passion for the kitchen. “I fell in love with the energy, the creativity, and the dedication everyone shared,” he says. The job was meant to be temporary, but it set him on a lifelong course. His decision faced resistance from his family, particularly his mother, who believed cooking wasn’t a legitimate profession. It took international acclaim and a feature in a Korean newspaper for her to acknowledge the value of his work.

Lee’s training under French chefs helped shape his early career. He moved to London, where he honed his skills in high-pressure kitchens, before joining Thomas Keller’s team at The French Laundry in 2001. There, he climbed the ranks and played a key role in the restaurant’s 2007 three-star Michelin achievement. Keller’s philosophy of merging personal memories with refined cuisine left a lasting impression. “He transformed everyday foods like mac and cheese into gourmet experiences by connecting them to his upbringing and cultural background,” Lee explains.

Blending Tradition and Innovation

When Lee left The French Laundry to open Benu in 2010, he applied Keller’s approach to his Korean heritage. His menu combined elements from East Asian cuisines—such as Chinese ingredients like 1,000-year-old eggs and Jinhua ham, Japanese sake and wasabi, and Korean perilla and fermented chili—with French techniques and fresh California produce. This fusion reflected his personal connection to both cultures, as he sought to honor the foods he grew up with while elevating them to a global stage.

His mother’s cooking style, characterized by mild flavors and clean preparation, played a significant role in his development. Additionally, his grandmother’s strict Buddhist diet, which emphasized aromatic herbs, fermented goods, and umami-rich broths over pungent spices like onion and garlic, influenced his balance of seasoning. “The way she approached food taught me the importance of subtlety and depth,” he says. These lessons are evident in Benu’s approach, where traditional Korean elements are reimagined with modern precision.

Recognition and Legacy

Lee’s innovative style has garnered widespread praise, including from San Francisco critic Michael Bauer, who reviewed Benu shortly after its launch. He described the restaurant’s 12-course tasting menu, which originally cost $160 but now exceeds $425, as a bold exploration of cultural fusion. “The menu is a celebration of the ingredients and techniques that shaped my childhood,” Lee notes. This sentiment underscores his mission to bridge the gap between Korean culinary traditions and contemporary gastronomy.

His journey from a suburban New Jersey upbringing to a Michelin-starred chef is a testament to his resilience and creativity. By infusing his Korean roots into high-end dining, Lee has not only redefined the perception of Korean food but also paved the way for its global recognition. The rise of the Korean wave—encompassing everything from K-pop to K-beauty—has created fertile ground for this shift, but Lee’s work predates it.

As Korean cuisine gains traction worldwide, Lee’s contributions remain pivotal. His ability to merge East Asian flavors with French elegance has set a new standard, proving that traditional dishes can be elevated through innovation. From the quiet kitchens of his childhood to the bustling fine dining scene, Lee’s story is one of cultural pride and artistic reinvention. It’s a narrative that continues to inspire chefs and food enthusiasts alike, demonstrating that authenticity and creativity can coexist in even the most refined of culinary experiences.